War Memorial of Korea

Leesa and a Black Hawk


Weapons of Mass Destruction


A photo of Canadian soldiers playing hockey during a break. The photo is signed by Jean Chretien.


Seoul in 1952

My Students

A Day at the Park

Chuseok in the City

My friend from UNBC, Craig Johnson, and I


The Newfoundland flag in the Rocky Mountain Tavern

An Accidental Walking Tour

As we tried to find a market one day, and instead, went in the absolute wrong direction. I was a good thing because we found the Canadian Embassy, and saw a really nice part of the city.

The last day of vacation before going back to work, but only for one day, and then its the weekend. It was pouring rain this morning, and Leesa and I went to the immigration office. We need to register and get our alien cards. It was chaos there. The process went surprisingly fast, but the building was packed with people. I think it was the most crowded area I have been since my arrival. I didn't have enough paperwork, so now I have to go back on Monday. However it is easier than trying to get a Canadian passport these days.

The War Memorial Museum yesterday was very interesting. Korea has a long history of defending itself from Japan and China, who have always tried to take over the country. It seems that Korea, being in the middle, was a desireable peice of land for them. Half of the museum was about the last 3000 years and the various groups that have invaded. The second half was about the Korean War. I didn't know much about this peice of history and it was interesting seeing it from their point of view. There were lots of photos, weapons, newspaper articles and re-enactments. Outside were planes, tanks, helicopters, a submarine, boats and trucks. Another part of the museum was dedicated to the Korean Marine Corps and their role in today's conflicts. Much of the exhibit expressed the desire from the people for the two countries to be reunited. Its hard to say what will happen.

The other day, we were trying to find a market and ended up getting lots. It was good that we got lost because we stumbled upon the Canadian Embassy. It was closed for the holidays, but we were very excited.

Everyday

On Vacation

Its Korean Thanksgiving and I've had the last 5 days off. Its been great. The city has totally emptied out and its a bit eerie with the streets being so vacant. Denise's (friend/co-teacher) friend Shelby is visiting from Kuala Lampur, and Leesa arrived last week. We've all been playing tourist and enjoying the lazy days.

I went to Leesa's house on Saturday. She lives in an older part of Seoul, on the other side of the city from me. As I have seen more and more of the city, I realize that the area I live in is very unique. It is the second richest neighbourhood in the city. The streets are clean and safe. The parks are always full of children and families playing and getting their excercise. Expensive boutiques line the streets and large 40 storey apartment buildings are everywhere. Most of the kids I teach have only their fathers working and their mothers stay at home. This environment has jaded my view of the city and is not completely representative of Seoul. Leesa's neighbourhood has winding alleyways and older apartment buildings. Stores are tucked everywhere. There is less affluence and less extravagance. I love her neighbourhood because of the character. Two blocks away is one of the best markets I've been to since I've been here. With only a few clothing stores, most of the shops sell live seafood, kimchi, steamed dumplings and other delicacies for immediate consumption, bottled ginseng and every vegetable imagineable. There is a university near her also.

In our adventures, we have spent lots of time in the foreign area, Itaewon. People from all over the world live and work in that neighbourhood. Leesa and I had dinner at a french bistro one night and an Indian one the next. Nightclubs and bars are everywhere. The US Military base is close by too so GIs spend lots of free time there. Last night we went to the Canadian pub, the Rocky Mountain Tavern, for wings and beer. It felt like home. I met up with my friend Craig who has lived here for the last 4 years. He loves it and can't see himself moving back to Vancouver. After 4 hours at the pub, it almost felt like we had left Seoul altogether.

Denise and I have been biking lots. There is a great pathway system that runs along the river, through the parks, and along most of the canals that run through the city. It was busy one morning and every single person stared at us like we were freaks. In fact wherever I go I am stared at. When a group of us are out its even worse. It gets quite uncomfortable when we're on the subway and men won't stop staring at us. Yesterday we had to change seats because it was so bad. But most of the time an assertive "what are you looking at?" quite loudly puts them back in their place.

Today Leesa and I are going to the War Memorial Museum. Most people have to go back to work tomorrow, but I have one more day off. Back to work on Friday and then another weekend. Life is tough. However this is the last hilday we have until Christmas Day, and then it is only the 25th that we have off.

Mom and Dad booked their tickets to come and visit me on March 5th. I'm very excited and can't wait to show them the city.

This Week in Pictures

Eating dakgalbi and wearing aprons


Denise and a beer, sitting outside the Family Mart (in our apartment building)


Namdaemun Market on a Saturday


A protest outside Namdaemun


Insadong, one of my favourite areas so far. Very artsy, lots of tea shops and artisans.




A different night, again, having beers in front of the Family Mart and eating delicious food (some had pizza, some had Korean food)

My Sweet Bike

Today I bought a bicycle. It's yellow, red and has purple fenders. If they could've made it hypercolour, they would have because its right from the early '90s. I got it for $50. It has a rack on the back. I need to buy a basket for the front and a bell. I'm very excited.



Denise Teacher also bought one. Hers is silver. It took 15 to 20 minutes to walk from home to school and now we can ride in 5 minutes. There is a huge cycling circuit along the river here and its very close to our house so we are going for a ride tomorrow morning. Our area is really bike friendly. Along the sides of the road are guard rails so pedestrians and cyclist don't get hit by a car. And there is one path for bikes and one path for pedestrians. Riding home tonight after work though were some guys on motorcycles riding the opposite way on our bike path. It was a bit sketchy.

Tomorrow is Friday and its the last days of work for a week. Next Tuesday is Korean Thanksgiving, Chuseok. Its the biggest holiday besides New Years. The shcool is closed Monday to Thursday. So we all have 4 days off. Almost everyone is Seoul leaves the city to go to the country and visit family. Most stores close down also. It would be nice to go somewhere, however I did just arrive here so I am going to check out the rest of the city. And of course ride my bike. Leesa, my friend from UNBC, arrived yesterday. She is working on the other side of the city at another school. She's going to stay at my place after the Waygook Floor Crawl and then I'll help her move into her place on Saturday. She's also going to play tourist with me next week.

My first week of teaching is over and it was hard. On Friday, I felt sorry for my own students because I knew my class was so boring. I feel like I need more time to prepare and to come up with more creative ways to teach the material. Sometimes I don't even know if the kids are learning or are just reciting the books like programmed robots.

But overall I do like it. It will get easier. On Monday, Wednesday and Friday, I teach 7 classes, between 35 minutes and 50 minutes long. The kids range from grade 1 to grade 6. On Tuesdays and Thursdays I only teach 2 classes, and the rest of the time I help in the research room. My project for this semester involves writing comprehension tests for books that kids can take out on loan. I was going through the pile of books and there are lots from when I was a kid, like Mrs. Nelson has a Field Day, and Mrs. Nelson Goes to School, and many more that I can't remember right now. I think it will be a fun project.

This weekend I met up with Gavin Hee from high school. He has been here for almost four years working for one of the big schools. He was teaching and now he works in their computer department. I haven't seen him since graduation. We met up and he took me to Namdaemun Market. I got lost on the subway first and showed up one hour late. But anyway this market was insane! They sold everything. Gavin needed new glasses, and got a set for $30: $15 for the frames, $15 for the lenses and a free eye test. So the bidding can start on how many pairs of glasses I come home with. The market had vendors in booths, and then more vendors in the aisles. There was clothing, shoes, bags, jewelery, groceries, movies, and then booths where you could order food (I didn't stop to see if there were any stinky bug food stands, Lewis Family. But I will check out the Domdaemun Market). It was overwhelming and I have to go back someday. I bought some dried mango.

Everyday I meet someone new in the building. There are LOTS of foreign teachers. So this Friday night, we are having a Waygook Floor Crawl. Its like a pub crawl, but we go from apartment to apartment for a different drink. Some of the drinks will be So Flos (Soju floats), Soju Jello shooters and plain old beer. The only rule is that we cannot use the elevators. Should be fun.

So now I am sitting on my bed, with my delicious cup of instant coffee. It's raining outside monsoon style and I have to work in a few hours. I actually enjoy all the downtime I have.

I forgot to mention this sooner. Thank you to everyone for the well wishes before I left and all the emails, notes and gifts. I really appreciate everyone thinking of me and I will do my best to keep in touch personally on a regular basis.

The Neighbourhood

Paris Park



I remembered, right after I took this photo, that it is rude to take photos of religious and spiritual structures and artifacts...oops. Silly waygook.

My apartment hallway, very institutional.

Shopping aka taking pictures of stuff in the grocery store

Chilli peppers drying in the sun on the sidewalk.

Mini yogurt drinks.

A department store, however the police were outside with their riot shields...

Silkworm larvae anyone?

This beer cost $2.00.

Costco Trip

Steph, Denise and I went on an adventure to Costco yesterday. I didn't even know they had them here. But yes they do. It was insane. It was two levels, with moving sidewalks going between the floors. If you have a buggy, then the wheels automatically lock when you get on the conveyor thing. Amazing.

It was total madness. It was as busy as one could imagine on a Saturday, however as I observed people maneuvre from aisle to ailse, I realized that no one wants to be the one to pull over, or to move an arm or a shoulder if someone walks by. I saw two women glaring at each other and could have gotten into a scrap and Denise said that these "throw downs" happen all the time.

The shop was a success. Especially with 2 other people, we were able to split lots of stuff. They event have Annie's Naturals Macaroni and Cheese. I was over the moon, having brought 2 boxes in my suitcase.

I just made some soup and I added all of the hot seasoning and now my mouth is on fire...

The View

From the outside...